IMAGE  EVALUATION 
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Sciences 
Corporation 


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VtBSTER.N.Y.  14580 

(>1A)  872-4S03 


CIHM/ICMH 

Microfiche 

Series. 


CIHM/ICIVIH 
Collection  de 
microfiches. 


Canadian  Institute  for  Historical  Microreproductions  /  Institut  Canadian  de  microreproductions  historiques 


Technical  and  Bibliographic  Notes/Notes  techniques  et  bibliographiques 


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D 
D 
D 
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Coloured  covers/ 
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Covers  damaged/ 
Couverture  endommagAe 

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Encre  de  couleur  (i.e.  autre  que  bleue  ou  noire) 


D 
D 
D 


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Coloured  plates  and/or  illustrations/ 
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Bound  with  other  material/ 
Reli6  avec  d'autres  documents 

Tight  binding  r  ly  cause  shadows  or  distortion 
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La  re  liure  serrde  peut  causer  de  I'ombre  ou  de  la 
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11  se  peut  que  certaines  pages  blanches  ajoutdes 
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rri    Pages  discoloured,  stained  or  foxed/ 
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Les  pages  totalement  ou  partiellement 
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This  item  is  filmed  at  the  reduction  ratio  checked  below/ 

Ce  document  est  1\\'m6  au  taux  de  reduction  indiqud  ci-dessous. 

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ails 

du 

>dlifier 

une 

nage 


Th«  copy  film«d  h«r«  has  b««n  raproducad  thanks 
to  tha  ganarosity  of: 

Library  Diviiion 

Provincial  Archives  of  British  Columbia 

Tha  imagas  appaaring  hara  ara  tha  bast  quality 
possibia  consldaring  tha  condition  and  lagibility 
of  tha  original  copy  and  in  kaaping  with  tha 
filming  contract  spacifications. 


L'axamplaira  fllmi  fut  raproduit  grAca  i  la 
ginArositA  da: 

Library  Division 

Provincial  Archives  of  British  Columbia 

Las  imagas  suivantas  ont  At*  raproduitas  avac  ia 
plus  grand  soin.  compta  tanu  da  ia  condition  at 
da  la  nattatA  da  l'axamplaira  f  llmA.  at  an 
conformitA  avac  las  conditions  du  contrat  da 
filmaga. 


Original  copias  in  prints'^  papar  covars  ara  filmad 
baginning  with  tha  front  covar  and  anding  on 
tha  last  paga  with  a  printad  or  illustratad  impras- 
sion.  or  jha  back  covar  whan  apo'opriata.  All 
othar  original  copias  ara  fdmad  baginning  on  tha 
first  paga  with  a  printad  or  illustratad  impras- 
sion,  and  anding  on  tha  last  paga  with  a  printed 
or  illustratad  imprassion. 


Tha  last  racordad  frama  on  each  microficha 
shall  contain  tha  symbol  — ^>  (maaning  "CON- 
TINUED"), or  tha  symbol  V  (maaning  "END"), 
whichavar  applias. 


Las  axamplairas  originaux  dont  la  couvartura  •n 
papiar  est  imprirrtAa  sont  filmAs  an  commandant 
par  la  pramiar  plat  at  an  tarminant  so'l  par  la 
darniAre  paga  qui  comporta  una  amprainta 
d'impression  ou  d'illustretion,  soit  par  la  sacond 
plat,  salon  la  cas.  Tous  Ins  autras  axamplairas 
originaux  sont  filmAs  en  commandant  par  la 
pramiAra  paga  qui  comporta  una  amprainta 
d'imprassion  ou  d'illustration  at  an  tarminant  par 
la  darniAre  page  qui  comporte  une  telle 
empreinte. 

Un  des  symboles  suivants  apparaitra  SLr  la 
darniAre  image  de  cheque  microfiche,  selon  le 
cas:  le  symbols  — ►  signifie  "A  SUIVRE",  le 
symbole  V  signifie  "FIN". 


Maps,  plates,  charts,  etc.,  may  be  filmed  at 
different  reduction  ratios.  Those  too  large  to  be 
entirely  included  in  one  exposure  are  filmed 
beginning  in  the  upper  left  hand  corner,  left  to 
right  and  top  to  bottom,  as  many  frames  as 
required.  The  following  diagrams  illustrate  the 
method: 


Les  cartes,  planches,  tableaux,  etc.,  peuvent  Atre 
filmAs  A  des  taux  da  rAduction  diff Arents. 
Lorsque  le  document  est  trop  grand  pour  Atre 
reproduit  en  un  seul  clichA.  11  est  filmA  A  partir 
da  i'angle  supArieur  gauche,  da  gauche  A  droite, 
et  de  haut  en  has.  en  prenant  la  nombre 
d'images  nAcessaira.  Les  diagrammas  suivants 
iilustrent  la  mAthode. 


irrata 
to 


pelure. 
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;  I 


h^ 


9th  Congress, 
1st  Session. 


[SENATE.] 


[475] 


%■ 


STATEMENT 

OP 


i 

i 


CHARLES  WILKES,  A  COMMANDER  IN  THE  U.,  S.  NAVY, 


OF   THE 


■•»• 


Survey  of  the  mouth  of  the  Columbia  river  by  the  United  States  exploring 

expedition. 


■^•; 


&» , 


AoGusT  3,  1846. — Referred  to  the  Committee  on  Printing. 
August  5,  1846. — Ordered  tc  be  printed. 


',r,y:;V' 


'1 

■'  r 

i 

A 

4 


..- M 


7  Hon.  James  A.  Pearce, 

^  Senator  of  the  United  States,  and  chairman 

"■ .  Joint  Library  Comm'  'se  of  Congress :  -, 

^ijj^  a?C?i*.  .i^i/f.;  ^  JO  f 

Sir:  As  there  seems  to  be  a  great  eiFort  making,  through  the  instru- 
mentality of  Passed  Midshipmen  Knox  and  Reynolds,  and  Midshipman 
Blair,  who  were  engaged  in  a  subordinate  capacity  in  the  survey  of  the 
Columbia  r^yer,  and  whose  erroneous  opinions  are  now  being  offered  to 
the  Senate  of  the  United  States  as  the  correct  results  of  the  surveys,  (for 
what  reason  I  kuow  not,)  to  produce  the  impression  that  the  entrance  of 
the  Columbia  river  is  one  of  the  most  feasible  and  safest  ports  in  the  world, 
(even  a  New  York  pilot,  who  has  never  seen  or  been  near  Columbia 
river,  has  been  called  upon  to  give  his  testimony,  in  order  to  add  weight 
to  this  favorable  opinion,)  I  think  it  a  duty  I  owe  to  my  countrymen, 
navigators,  and  all  others  interested,  to  give  a  succint  account  of  its  state 
and  condition  at  the  time  I  undertook  the  survey  of  it  with  the  officers  of 
the  exploJng  expedition,  the  manner  of  conducting  the  survey,  and  cor- 
rect sailing  directions. 

I  have  no  desire  to  exaggerate  the  dangers  of  the  entrance  of  the  Co- 
lumbia river ;  but  as  a  surveyor  and  the  commander  of  the  expedition,  I 
deem  it  my  duty  to  give  directions  agreeably  to  the  truth,  and,  whv're  dan- 
gers do  exist,  to  point  them  out,  that  due  caution  may  be  observed  by 
those  who  may  follow  after  us.  To  add  force  to  my  own  opinion,  1  might 
here  appeal  to  the  account  of  all  voyagers  who  have,  from  time  to  time, 
visited  the  Columbia  since  its  first  discovery.  They  all,  without  excep- 
tion, clothe  it  with  dangers ;  and  none  have  had  the  hardihood  to  attempt 
its  entrance  except  under  the  most  favorable  circumstances ;  and  almost 
every  vessel  that  has  attempted  a  passage,  in  or  out,  has  met  with  some 
disaster  more  or  less  serious :  even  those  who  have  been  deemed  the  most 
expert  navigators,  and,  we  have  reason  to  believe,  had  the  best  information 
respecting  it,  have  not  escaped  uninjured.  Indeed,  all  the  information 
the  officers  and  myself  received  from  the  masters  of  the  H.  B.  company's 
Ritchie  A  Heiss,  print.  • 


[476] 


MnwO,  ft  tp!     \^<V/J 


-4p  t- 
NC7V  3  '60 


vessels,  (men  of  great  experience  in  the  navigation  of  the  river,  and  able 
navigators  and  seamen,)  was  indicative  of  the  dangers  and  perils  they 
were  surrounded  with  in  entering  and  departing  from  the^polumbia,  at 
all  seasons  of  the  year.  One  of  them  used  the  expression,  that  it  "  added 
to  his  gray  hairs  every  time  he  passed  in  or  out  of  the  river,  and  he  should 
thank  his  God  when  he  was  no  longer  subjected  to  it;"  but  our  own  ope- 
rations and  experience  will  be  the  best  to  rely  upon,  which  I  intend  now 
to  give. 

The  lower  part  of  the  Columbia  river,  it  will  be  seen  by  the  chart,  ex- 
pands into  a  llirge  and  open  bay,  in  the  middle  of  which,  and  extending 
from  each  cape,  are  extensive  sand  shoals ;  part  of  the  middle  sands  are 
bare.  These  shoals  form  the  great  obstruction  to  the  entrance  of  the  river ; 
and  from  the  strong  currents  and  westerly  winds,  extensive  breakers  are 
formed,  and  for  the  most  part  conceal  the  passage  between  the  north  and 
south  spits.  These  two  sand  spits  overlap  each  other ;  the  south  one  pro- 
jecting to  seaward  of  the  north  one,  being  in  a  line  almost  at  right  angles 
with  it.  These  obstructions  have  been  formed  by  the  deposite  of  the  sands 
brought  down  the  river,  or  washed  by  the  abrasion  of  the  sea  from  the 
neighboring  cliffs  or  capes.  The  breakers  on  these  spits  are  usually  vio- 
lent, though  there  are  times  when  there  is  little  or  no  break  on  their  outer 
ends ;  yet  this  is  seldom  the  case,  and  in  lieu  of  these  a  heavy  swell  passes 
over  them,  but  ill  defining  the  danger.  The  bar  lies  outside  of  these,  and 
is  attended  with  no  particular  danger  unless  the  sea  is  very  heavy,  when 
breakers  form  on  it  also,  and  a  vessel  would  be  subjected  to  risk  from  the 
heavy  swell  in  passing.  The  depth  of  water  on  the  bar  at  low  water  is 
28  feet.  The  bar  has  been  erroneously  represented  as  the  position  of  dan- 
ger ;  this  is  a  mistake.  No  accident,  to  my  knowledge,  has  happened  on 
it.  The  situation  of  the  south  end  of  the  north  breaker  is  the  point  of 
greatest  danger.  It  is  necessary  to  pass  close  to  it ;  and  as  a  vessel  be- 
comes, on  nearing  it,  subject  to  the  influence  of  the  strong  cross  tides  set- 
ting in  or  out  of  the  two  channels,  she  is  comparatively  under  little  con- 
trol from  her  helm,  and  requires  great  care  in  the  navigator,  as  the  tides 
have  great  effect  upon  her  steering,  and  of  which  her  compasses  give  no 
timely  notice  whatever.  On  this  account  the  compasses  are  of  no  use, 
and  any  directions  wherein  they  form  a  part  cannot  be  relied  upon.  On 
this  account  I  have  dispensed  with  their  use,  and  resorted  to  ranges,  which 
the  most  casual  observer  will  instantly  recognise. 

The  dangers  are,  in  my  opinion,  great  for  large  vessels,  but  there  are 
times  when  almost  any  class  of  vessel  might  pass  in  with  safety ;  but 
they  are  few  and  far  between,  occurring  very  seldom. 

At  the  change  of  tide,  or  slack  water,  the  breakers  are  very  much  dimin- 
ished or  lost,  and  are  less  violent  on  the  ebb-tide  than  on  the  flood. 

The  opinion  I  have  formed  is,  that  both  the  north  and  south  spits  are 
increasing ;  this  is  corroborated  by  those  with  whom  I  conversed,  and 
whose  experience  extended  some  years  back.  In  the  memory  of  many, 
Cape  Disappointment  itself  has  been  worn  away  some  hundred  feet  by 
the  abrasion  of  the  sea  and  the  strong  currents  that  pass  by  its  base.  The 
middle  sands  are  subject  to  great  changes.  During  the  survey  a  large  por- 
tion of  what  was  dry  sand  was  washed  off  and  carried  away,  and  every 
spring  the  usual  marks  or  channels  throughout  the  course  of  the  river  are 
lost  or  changed.    Of  late  years  the«outh  channel  has  become  much  more 


wo 


NOV  3  'fiO 


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Is  they 
bia,  at 
added 
should 
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id  now 


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t  475  ] 


marked,  and  is  believed  to  be  on  the  increase,  as  a  large  portion  of  the 
water  appears  to  set  through  it  by  the  accumulation  of  the  upper  sands. 
If  this  should  be  the  case,  it  will  become  considerably  enlarged  and  im- 
proved; at  the  same  time,  we  may  look  for  a  corresponding  increase  in  the 
length  of  the  south  spit. 

As  an  endeav  r  has  been  made  to  deprive  the  officers  who  were  en- 
gaged in  the  survey  of  the  Columbia  river  of  the  credit  due  them,  and  to 
place  it  where  it  does  not  belong,  I  think  it  proper  now  to  give  a  full  ac- 
count of  that  duty,  by  whom  and  how  it  was  performed,  lest  my  silence 
might  be  construed  as  assenting  to  the  erroneous  statements  that  have 
been  put  forth  by  Passed  Midshipman  Reynolds  and  Midshipman  Blair- 

The  survey  was  originally  begun  by  Captain  Hudson  and  his  officers 
on  the  2.id  of  July,  four  days  after  the  wreck  of  his  ship,  in  a  most  praise 
worthy  manner,  while  many  of  them  had  scarcely  clothes  to  their  backs, 
and  was  persevered  in  until  the  7ih  of  August,  when  I  arrived  off  the 
mouth  of  the  liver  with  the  Vincennes  and  Porpoise.  Circumstances 
rendered  it  necessary  for  me  to  take  command  of  the  Porpoise,  and  to 
send  the  Vincennes,  (after  the  necessary  exchanges  of  officers  had  been 
made,)  under  Lieutenant  Commandant  Ringgold,  to  San  Francisco. 

After  the  departure  of  the  Vincennes,  1  examined  the  progress  that  had 
been  made  in  the  survey,  and  saw  the  necessity  of  changing  the  whole 
plan  of  it,  in  order  to  expedite  the  duties  we  were  required  to  perform. 
Orders  were  given  accordingly  to  erect  signals  at  suitable  points  for  the 
triangulation,  which  occupied  us  some  six  days. 

A  part  of  the  middle  sands  being  bare,  and  occupying  nearly  the  centre 
of  the  bay,  offered  a  most  excellent  poi?it  d^appui  for  a  survey  of  the 
harbor.  This  was  taken  advantage  of,  and  chosen  as  my  principal  sta- 
tion, forming  the  apex  to  several  triangles  that  embraced  the  whole  extent 
of  the  bay.  When  all  was  prepared,  on  the  16th  August,  Lieutenants 
Perry,  Maury,  North,  and  De  Haven,  and  acting  Masters  Baldwin  and 
Sinclair,  were  ordered  to  occupy  the  main  points  of  the  triangles,  with  in- 
struments and  bombs  for  measuring  angles,  and  obtaining  bases  by  sound. 
These  points  had  been  chosen  particularly  with  reference  to  the  facility  for 
being  observed  upon  by  the  sounding  parties  to  be  employed  in  the  bay,  on 
the  bar,  and  in  the  north  and  south  channels.  In  order  to  effect  the  most 
direct  communication  between  the  one  in  Baker's  bay  and  the  cape,  a 
long  avenue  was  cut  through  the  trees  on  Cape  Disappointment. 

The  whole  material,  including  measurement  of  angles,  sides,  astronom- 
ical observations  for  latitude,  longitude,  and  azimuths,  was  obtained  in  a 
few  hours,  and  under  the  most  favorable  circumstances.  The  stations 
chosen  by  Captain  Hudson  and  Lieutenant  Perry  were  also  incorporated 
into  the  survey,  and  the  measurements  by  sound  compared,  and  found  to 
agree  with  their  measured  base  by  a  chain,  on  ground  favorable  for  the 
purpose.  By  the  following  day  this  work  was  all  calculated  and  projected. 
From  this,  the  survey  of  the  Columbia  river  began. 

Now  as  respects  the  duties  performed  by  acting  Master  Knox,  in  charge 
of  the  Flying  Fish,  with  two  boats  of  the  Peacock,  they  are  embraced  in 
the  following  instructionji ;  and  two  skeleton  charts  of  the  river,  contain- 
ing all  the  points  established,  were  with  them  handed  to  him,  to  fill  up 
the  soundings  and  establish  the  minor  shoals  and  points.  The  following 
is  a  copy  of  these  instructions : 


226553 


^-  ^-  •■,.-•■ 


[47«] 


■T.lrt!»*T^ 


Copy  of  orders  to  Passed  Midshipman  Knox. 


United  States  Brig  Porpoise, 

Off  Astoria,  August  16,  1846. 

Sir:  Accompanying  this  you  will  receive  two  skeleton  charts,  enabra- 
cing  the  mouth  of  the  Columbia  river,  and  as  far  up  as  Tongue  point. 

Although  I  have  pointed  out  to  you,  verbally,  the  duty  that  is  to  be 
performed,  and  the  manner  in  which  I  wish  the  work  you  are  intrusted 
with  executed,  1  think  it  proper  to  give  written  directions  as  to  your 
manner  of  carrying  k  on><-'- 

1st.  You  will  be  very  particular  to  prevent  any  unnecessary  risk  to  your 
vessel,  her  crew,  or  boats,  for  you  must  be  well  aware  that  on  her  and 
their  preservation  much  of  the  future  duties  of  the  expedition  depend. 
Although  the  Flying  Fish  is  well  adapted  to  the  performance  of  the  duties 
you  are  about  to  undertake,  yet  it  is  very  necessary  to  be  cautious  in  not 
risking  too  much,  even  in  her. 

2d.  The  points  of  the  main  triangulation  have  been  conveniently  located, 
and  can  be  easily  distinguished  from  the  bar,  and  in  the  north  and  south 
channels,  and  will  be  seen  whenever  the  weather  will  permit  you  to  work 
there. 

3d.  In  taking  up  a  position  with  the  Flying  Fish,  you  will  always 
place  her,  by  angles,  on  three  or  more  points  of  the  main  triangulation. 
When  fixed,  you  will  at  once  mark  the  stations  on  the  chart ;  then  you 
will  radiate  the  lines  of  soundings  with  the  boats  from  the  schooner,  es- 
tablishing the  radiating  lines  of  the  boats  by  observations  from  the 
schooner,  either  by  azimuths,  or  angles,  or  signals.  The  officers  in  the 
boats  will  fix  the  end  of  the  lines  sounded  by  the  height  of  the  mast 
of  the  Flying  Fish,  when  at  a  short  distance  ;  and  when  more  remote,  by 
three  or  more  points,  the  schooner  being  one  of  them. 

4th.  The  soundings  must  be  transferred  to  the  chart  as  soon  as  possi- 
ble after  they  are  taken,  in  order  that  you  may  see  the  actual  progress  you 
are  making,  and  to  allow  you  to  verify  any  points,  or  fill  up  any  omis- 
sions. 

6th.  When  the  sounding  lines  reach  the  shore  or  sand  banks,  they 
must  be  fixed  by  three  points  of  the  triangulation.  These  minor  points 
will  enable  you  to  trace  the  shore  line  with  accuracy,  and  sketch  in  from 
station  to  station.  I  need  not  say  to  you  that  it  is  of  importance  they 
should  be  accurately  observed,  attended  to  by  yourself,  and  as  numerous 
as  possible. 

6th.  I  apprehend  much  difficulty  in  your  work  in  the  north  and  south 
channels,  as  the  tides  are  extremely  rapid,  and  it  will  be  seldom  that  the 
boats  can  be  used,  except  near  slack  water.  Slack-water,  though  of  short 
duration,  will  afford  you  time  to  effect  much  in,  if  properly  improved. 
You  must  at  all  times  be  cautious  in  usiing  the  boats  when  the  tide  is 
strong. 

7th.  You  must  not  remain  at  anchor  outside  the  capes,  in  either  chan- 
nel, over  nightfall.  You  will  either  anchor  in  Baker's  bay,  inside  Cape 
Disappointment,  or  within  point  Adams,  on  the  Clatsop  shore. 

8th.  The  bar  and  channels  outside  the  capes  will  claim  your  earliest 
attention.  Every  favorable  opportunity  that  the  weather  presents  must 
be  improved  to  complete  those  parts  of  the  work.    When  the  weather 


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5  [  475  ] 

proves  unfavorable  for  that  part  of  the  work,  you  will  be  able  to  employ 
yourself  in  the  river  above  the  middle  sands,  or  about  Astoria. 

9th.  A  tide  staff  will  be  kept  at  Astoria;  but  you  will,  while  employed 
in  sounding,  note  particularly  the  variation  of  the  depth  of  water  along- 
side, and  the  time ;  your  soundings  will  be  reduced  accordingly. 

10th.  You  will  apprize  me  of  your  proceedings  from  time  to  time,  and 
imiiediately  if  any  accident  should  befall  you. 

i»ir.  Eld  and  his  party  are  daily  expected  from  Gray's  harbor;  you  will 
render  him  all  the  aid  in  your  power.  Mr.  Colvocoresses  is  ordered  to 
report  to  you  for  duty.  If  you  have  duty  for  him,  detain  him;  if  not,  let 
him  join  me  at  Vancouver.   ;  ji*i  /s. 

Wishing  you  success  in  carrying  out  these  instructions,  I  am,  with 
respect,  yours,  &c., 

CHARLES  WILKES, 
Commanding  Exploring  Expedition, 

Acting  Master  Saml.  R.  Knox, 

Commanding  Flying  Fish.  ;, .x. 

In  obedience  to  these  orders,  acting  Master  Knox  proceeded  to  fill  up 
the  soundings.  Having  found  that  he  has  given  an  erroneous  impression 
(probably  from  memory)  relative  to  the  entrance  and  harbor,  I  herewith 
give  copies  of  his  reports  lo  me ;  which,  being  written  at  the  time  and 
during  the  progress  of  his  work,  give  a  different  impression,  and,  no 
doubt,  a  correct  one. 

Mr.  Knox  to  Captain  Wilkes.  "* 

,  .  '  .  Schooner  Flying  Fish, 

.*»'^y^...:-^.^^m  ,       ^'•^  George,  August  28, 1841. 

Sir  :  Mr.  Eld,  with  his  party,  arrived  yesterday,  and  I  came  up  to  this 
place  with  (hem  in  the  afternoon.  He  will  leave  for  Vancouver  to-day,  if 
possible. 

I  have  been  obliged,  while  awaiting  his  party,  to  work  in  the  vicinity 
of  Cape  Disappointment,  and  have  sounded  and  laid  in  the  shores  from 
the  cape  as  far  up  the  bay  as  a  line  between  the  Sand  island  and  the  small 
river  emptying  into  the  bay.  The  weather,  excepting  four  days,  has  been 
rough,  so  that  I  could  accomplish  very  little.  I  anchored  once  in  the  pas<- 
sage  outside  the  cape,  but  was  obliged,  by  the  setting  of  the  sea,  to  leave 
it  very  soon  afterwards.  Last  Tuesday  night,  while  at  anchor  on  the 
northern  side  of  the  Sand  ishmd  reef,  the  tide  running  very  strong,  the 
two  boats  swamped ;  and  the  Polly  broke  adrift,  and  probably  went  to  sea. 
I  did  not  leave  to  communicate  the  loss  to  you,  as  the  weather  proved  so 
fine  up  to  yesterday  that  I  thought  it  best  to  get  on  as  fast  as  possible  with 
the  remaining  boat.  I  have  taken  the  Pearl,  and  have  required  some  oars 
from  Mr.  Birnie.     I  shall  be  able  to  use  her  inside. 

Dr.  Palmer  has  advised  that  I  should  leave  William  Penno  on  shore, 
(sick,)  and  he  has  given  me  a  rr>an  in  his  place.  It  is  calm  now,  and  the 
tide  flood.  I  shall  leave  as  soon  as  possible,  and  sound  through  the  Clat« 
sop  channel,  which  I  hope  to  finish  in  a  day  or  two. 


*  •   ^»*    -fc  • 


t  475  ]  • 

I  I  am  at  present  sick,  but  can  get  on  with  the  work.  I  send  Mr.  Colvo- 
coresses  up,  as  I  have  no  duty  for  him. 

Veiy  respectfully, 

SAM'L  R.  KNOX,     -« - 
Acting'  Master,  commanding  Flying  Pish.   ■ 
*-  Charles  Wilkes,  Esq., 

Commanding  U.  S.  Exploring  Expedition.  > 


V 


Mr.  Knox  to  Captain  Wilkes. 


muBff 


U.  S.  Tender  Flying  Fish, 

At  the  Bar,  September  8, 1841. 

'''  Sir:  Your  letter  of  2d  instant  has  just  reached  me.  Since  I  wrote  by 
Mr.  Eld,  I  have  filled  up  the  Clatsop  channel  and  the  passage  leading 
from  the  cape,  out  as  far  as  that  leading  to  sea. 

I  have  done  nothing  more  to  the  bay  than  what  I  mentioned  in  my  last 

I  have  only  been  able  to  sound  on  slack  water,  as  the  tide  runs  with 
such  force  that  the  boats  can  do  nothing  in  it.  1  also  experienced  great 
difficulty  in  getting  the  schooner  to  the  stations  necessary  for  operating, 
and  find  it  impossible  to  remain  in  the  outer  passage  with  the  flood-tide 
and  sea  breeze. 

>'  I  do  not  think  I  shall  be  able  to  finish  this  part  of  the  work  in  less  than 
ten  days,  should  I  have  good  weather  all  the  time. 

1  shall  give  my  whole  attention  to  this,  until  it  is  finished. 
Respectfiilly,  <fcc., 

'  SAM'L  R.  KNOX, 

Acting  Master,  commanding  Flying  Fish. 

Charles  Wilkes,  Esq., 

Commanding  U.  S,  Exploring  Expedition. 

It  will  tl  ^e  be  seen  what  the  experience  of  Mr.  Knox  was,  from 
his  own  lettL  'n  his  letter  published  a  short  time  since  in  the  "  Union," 
he  has  attempted  to  give  directions  for  entering  the  river.  These  are 
both  incorrect  and  incomplete;  they  do  not  correspond,  and  cannot  be 
used  with  the  chart,  which  all  acknowledge  to  be  correct.  For  instance, 
he  speaks  of  Point  EUice  as  synonymous  with  Young's  Point,  when  they 
are  in  fact  on  opposite  sides  of  the  river ;  and  takes  no  notice  whatever  of 
the  position  of  the  greatest  danger,  viz :  the  end  of  the  north  spit  On 
this  spit  the  greatest  danger  exists ;  nearly  all  the  accidents  have  hap- 
pened on  it,  or  on  the  middle  sands.  Thus  much  for  the  share  he  took 
in  these  duties. 

'^  The  survey  up  the  river  was  conducted  with  six  boats.  They  were 
separated  into  three  division,  viz :  van,  middle,  and  rear.  One  of  each 
division  was  ordered  to  confine  its  operations  to  the  same  side  of  the 
river. 

^'  All  the  signals  on  the  right  hand  side  of  the  river  were  made  numer- 
ical, while  those  on  the  left  side  were  alphabetical ;  thus  the  officers  had 
no  difficulty  in  recognising  a  signal,  and  naming  it  at  once.  The  two 
van  boats  were  employed  in  putting  up  the  signals,  and  observing  the 
back  angles  ;  the  middle  division,  both  the  forward  and  back  angles;  and 
the  rear  division,  the  forward  angles.  The  van  and  middle  divisions  were 
also  provided  with  bombs  for  the  measurement  of  bases  by  sound,  which 


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%  [  475  ] 

they  were  all  to  note.  I  superintended  the  whole,  and  took  astronomical 
bearings  at  the  several  points  that  I  dfamed  most  effective  to  establish 
the  lines  of  bearing. 

The  river  was  triangulated  in  this  way.  As  a  further  check  upon  the 
operations,  the  two  brigs  anchored  alternately  in  sight  of  each  other. 
Guns  were  fired  by  them,  and  the  distance  by  sound  ascertained ;  the  as- 
tronomical bearing  being  observed  at  each  station,  and  a  round  of  angles 
measured  on  all  the  signals  in  sight.  Besides  this,  they  were  brought 
into  the  series  of  triangles  by  the  boats,  and  became  fully  incorporated  into 
the  survey. 

Under  these  regulations  the  operations  were  easily  governed ;  each  of* 
ficer  knew  what  he  had  to  perform ;  and  if  I  wished  to  change  the  order 
of  duty,  or  establish  any  point  more  carefully,  I  had  only  to  leave  a  mem- 
orandum to  that  effect  at  one  of  the  signals,  or  observe  with  my  theodo- 
lite. 

Some  little  difficulty  was  at  first  experienced  in  turning  the  sharp  bends 
of  the  river;  but  this  was  easily  overcome,  by  creating  what  I  termed  Jli/ing 
stations,  either  by  ordering  a  boat  or  one  of  the  brigs  to  anchor,  and  con- 
necting the  whole  together  by  two  or  three  small  triangles. 

The  signals  were  all  left  standing,  until  our  return  down  the  river,  for 
filling  in  the  soundings. 

On  our  arrival  at  Vancouver  three  boats  were  sent  with  Lieutenants 
Walker,  Maury,  and  acting  Master  Sinclair,  to  carry  on  the  survey  in 
a  similar  manner  forty  miles  above  that  place,  to  the  head  of  navigation  of 
the  Columbia ;  and  also  another  party,  consisting  of  Lieutenants  Perry, 
De  Haven,  and  acting  Master  Baldwin,  as  far  up  the  Willamette  as  the 
falls. 

On  our  return  down  the  river,  a  diagram  from  the  original  projection 
was  pricked  off,  and  the  lines  drawn  on  it  that  each  boat  was  required  to 
sound  out.  These  in  the  evening  were  returned,  and  others  substituted 
the  next  morning ;  so  that  each  day's  work  was  distinct  and  perfect  with- 
in itself.  The  sketching  in  of  the  shores  was  generally  done  by  myself; 
though  each  officer  was  required,  if  he  did  not  happen  to  strike  a  station 
at  the  end  of  his  line  of  sounding,  to  fix  his  position  by  angles  on  three 
or  more  points,  and  to  sketch  in  the  shores  in  the  vicinity. 

As  we  proceeded  up  the  river  I  occupied  three  stations,  at  a  distance  of 
about  thirty  miles  apart,  and  determined  their  latitude,  longitude,  and  va- 
riation. 

In  order  to  guard  against  liability  to  sickness  from  the  exposure  of  the 
officers  and  men,  I  gave  orders  that  no  boat  should  leave  the  vessels  be- 
fore 9  a.  m.  j  and  that  all  should  return  half  an  hour  before  sunset,  at  which 
time  the  awnings  must  be  spread,  and  curtains  drawn  close  around.  This 
course  was  adhered  to  during  the  whole  time  we  were  engaged ;  tmm 
which  precaution,  and  insisting  upon  their  having  dry  clothes  on,  and  the. 
great  care  of  Dr.  Holmes,  (to  whom  I  feel  much  indebted  for  his  exertions,) 
1  inipute  in  a  great  measure  their  preservation  fix)m  sickness  during  the 
sickly  season. 

These  arrangements  also  afforded  ample  time  for  the  work  to  be  calcu- 
lated and  projected  before  the  next  day,  and  enabled  me  to  see  that  noth- 
ing had  been  omitted  or  overlooked.  The  progress  we  were  enabled  to. 
me^e  each  day  was  firom  ten  to  fifteen  miles,  and  proved  very  satis&ctory. 

Surveying  dttty,  to  be  conducted  in  this  manner,  requires  practice  on  the 


[475] 


8 


part  of  the  officers,  and  much  attention.  The  emulation  among  the  men 
serves  to  obtain  their  utmost  efforts,  and  the  regularity  of  working  hours 
enables  all  to  have  time,  avoid  hurry,  or  confusion.  The  crews  every 
morning  were  inspected  before  going  to  work,  and  in  the  evening  after 
their  return. 

It  affords  me  great  pleasure  to  acknowledge  the  spirit  and  manner  in 
which  both  officers  and  men  conducted  the  work ;  at  the  same  time 
carrying  on  all  the  duties  appertaining  to  the  repairs  and  outfit  of  the 
bngs,  &,c. 

Those  engaged  in  the  survey  were :  Captain  Hudson ;  Lieutenants 
Walker,  Perry,  Maury,  North,  and  De  Haven ;  acting  Masters  Baldwin, 
Sinclair,  and  Knox;  Passed  Midshipmen  Harrison  and  Reynolds,  and 
Midshipman  Blair;  Drs.  Palmer  and  Holmes;  Pursers  Waldron  and 
Speiden ;  and  Clerks  Howison  and  Stuart. 

The  survey  of  the  Columbia  to  the  highest  point  navigable,  one  hun- 
dred and  twenty-five  miles  from  its  mouth,  with  its  various  branches  and 
inlets,  together  with  the  Willamette  and  Cowlitz,  occupied  from  the  16th 
of  August  till  the  10th  October,  a  period  of  fifty-five  days. 

The  following  are  the  sailing  directions  given  by  me  to  Commodore 
Dallas,  in  1843 : 

Sir:  Although  I  cannot  offer  you  the  fiill  sailing  directions  for  the  bar 
and  entrance  of  the  Columbia  river,  1  send  you  the  following  abstract  of 
my  noteSy  from  which  they  will  be  drawn  up. 

The  entrance  to  the  Columbia  river  may  be  considered  at  all  times  dan- 
gerous, owing  to  the  heavy  breakers,  cross  tides,  their  velocity,  and  the 
influence  of  an  under  current  on  a  vessel  drawing  much  water,  besides 
the  distance  of  any  thing  like  sailing  marks  for  the  channel,  which  not 
unfirequenlly  become  more  or  less  indistinct  when  the  state  of  the  weather 
will  permit  of  entrance  ;  and  from  a  want  of  due  attention  to  them,  a  ves- 
sel may  be  swept  ashore  without  receiving  any  notice  whatever  firom  the 
compasses.  Compass-bearings  are,  in  short,  of  but  little,  if  any  use,  in 
entering  the  river. 

It  is  safest  to  enter  on  the  ebb-tide,  with  the  nsnal  northwest  wind, 
which  sets  in  about  ten  or  eleven  o'clock,  a.  m.,  during  the  summer 
months.  The  entrance  should  never  be  attempted  with  a  flood-tide  and 
northwest  wind,  unless  the  Clatsop  channel  is  followed,  and  the  sea  is 
smooth. 

After  making  Cape  Disappointment,  which  is  easily  distinguishable  by 
the  dark  hummocks  and  tall  pines,  trimmed  up,  with  the  exception  of  their 
tops,  you  may  lead  in  for  it  on  a  northeast  bearing,  if  to  the  southward ; 
if  to  the  northward,  you  may  run  in  until  you  ha^e  that  bearing  on.  A 
hammock,  or  saddle-hill,  to  the  northward,  on  with  the  outer  part  of  the 
cape-land,  will  give  you  notice  that  you  are  on  the  bar,  in  4^  or  5  &thoms 
w&ter:  in  ordinary  weather,  the  outer  line  of  the  north  spit  is  readily  per- 
ceived by  the  rollers  breaking ;  the  inner  line  is  always  perceptible :  when 
Young's  Point  is  open  with  dead  trees  on  Point  Adams,  you  will  be  to 
northward  of  the  end  of  the  north  spit,  and  may  run  down  along  it 
until  those  two  points  are  on  range ;  then  haul  in  ror  Point  Ellice,  or  the 
green  patch  on  Chinook  hill ;  if  intending  to  take  the  channel  by  the  cape 
or  old  channel,  watch  the  opening  of  Leading-in  eUf,  with  the  inner 
point  of  the  cape,  and,  as  it  comes  on,  haul  up  directly  fat  it,  (the  cape,) 


X 


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f9 


[475] 


and  steer  in ;  you  will  then  have  doubled  close  tound  the  north  breaker, 
in  7  fathoms  water ;  and  it  is  better  to  keep  the  north  spit  close  aboard  if 
the  wind  is  not  so  scant  as  to  oblige  you  to  beat  up  for  Cape  Disappoint- 
ment :  on  opening  Green  Point,  you  must  go  about ;  it  is  not  safe  to  go 
nearer  the  middle  sand.  On  ordinary  occasions,  there  will  be  scarcely 
ever  a  necessity  to  tack ;  the  ebb-tide  on  your  lee  bow  will  keep  jrou  suf- 
ficiently to  windward. 

The  cape  will  be  required  to  be  passed  close  aboard,  in  order  to  avoid 
the  sand  spit  making  off  from  the  middle  sands  towards  the  cape ;  the  two 
outer  bluffs  of  the  cape,  in  range,  will  strike  it :  after  you  have  passed  this 
range,  you  may  steer  into  Baker's  bay,  and,  having  passed  an  opening  in 
the  wood  on  the  cape,  you  may  anchor  in  from  7  to  10  fathoms :  in  pass- 
ing the  cape,  care  must  be  taken  not  to  be  becalmed  by  it ;  if  this  should 
happen,  the  only  resource  is  to  down  anchor  at  once,  and  wait  a  favorable 
tide ;  the  current  will  be  found  very  strong  ;  it  sometimes  runs  from  6  to 
6  knots  an  hour — a  perfect  mill-race — and  no  boat  can  make  way  against 
it  when  at  its  strength. 

If  desirous  to  proceed  up  to  Astoria,  and  one  of  the  native  pilots  is  not 
to  be  had,  the  only  precaution  necessary  in  proceeding  up  is  to  keep  the 
small  islet  in  the  cove  of  the  cape  open  until  you  have  the  dead  tr6es 
nearly  S.  S.  E.,  (compass,)  and  then  steer  over  for  them ;  as  it  will  be  prob- 
ably young  flood,  it  is  necessary  to  keep  the  starboard  or  sand  island  side 
of  the  channel,  and  if  near  high  water,  this  island,  in  running  up,  must 
be  kept  open  on  the  starboard  bow ;  otherwise,  the  approach  to  it  would 
be  too  near  for  safety :  on  reaching  the  Clatsop  channel,  steer  up  lor 
Young's  Point,  keeping  in  5  or  6  fathoms  water ;  the  sand-shoals  on 
either  side  are  very  bold ;  when  abreast  of  Astoria,  moor  with  an  ebb  and 
flood  anchor,  with  open  hawse,  to  the  northward  and  westward. 

If  the  intention  be  to  take  the  Clatsop  channel,  the  same  directions  are 
to  be  observed  in  passing  the  north  spit.  When  the  Leading-in  cliff  is 
open,  instead  of  hauling  up  for  the  cape,  steer  direct  for  the  Clatsop  vil- 
lage on  Point  Adams,  which  will  take  you  into  fair  channel- way ;  the 
breakers  on  each  side  will  be  visible :  keep  in  the  middle  and  steer  up  for 
Young's  point,  following  the  directions  as  before  given. 

In  coming  out,  the  state  of  the  bar  may  be  distinctly  seen  firom  the  top 
of  the  cape,  but  due  allowance  must  be  made  for  the  distance :  the  surf 
beating  on  the  cape  is  a  good  guide  ;  if  there  is  much  of  it  the  swell  will 
be  very  heavy  and  sharp  between  the  north  and  south  spits,  if  it  does  not 
actually  break :  the  best  time  is  with  a  northwest  wind  and  about  half 
ebb ;  you  will  then  have  tide  enough  to  carry  you  to  sea. 

I  look  upon  it  as  always  dangerous  to  drop  anchor  in  the  channel  be- 
tween the  cape  and  the  end  of  the  north  spit ;  if  it  is  done,  it  should  only 
be  in  case  of  absolute  necessity,  and  not  a  moment  is  to  be  lost  when 
possible  to  proceed  out  or  in :  if  the  ship  gets  off  with  only  the  loss  of  an 
anchor,  she  may  consider  herself  fortunate.  The  sea  breeze  or  northwest 
and  westerly  winds  blow  at  times  very  fresh ;  a  sure  indication  of  them 
IS  a  thick  hazy  bank  in  the  west,  to  seaward. 

I  hop?  these  directions  may  be  of  use  to  you.  After  any  one  has  gone 
into  the  Columbia  river  and  out  again,  he  will  be  very  lucky  if  both  his 
patience  and  anxiety  are  not  worn  out ;  I  know  of  no  place  where  it  is  so 
likely  to  be  tried. 

The  end  of  the  south  spit  is  less  disUnctly  miurked  than  that  of  thfr 
2 


[476]  10  1^ 

north,  but  generally  a  deep  swell  will  be  perceived  to  form  on  it  without     j 
breaking ;  avoid  at  all  times  to  approach  it  too  close. 

The  sea  is  much  heavier  on  the  bar  with  the  flood-tide.  The  second  , 
sheet  of  the  Columbia  river  shows  the  new  and  direct  channel  above 
Tongue  point,  explored  by  the  expedition ;  it  is  convenient,  and  avoids 
all  detention  as  to  tide  and  liability  to  ground;  the  pilots  are  unac- 
quainted with  it.  From  off  Tongue  point  steer  direct  for  Bare  bluff,  until 
up  with  west  end  of  Termination  island,  and  then  for  the  dead  tree  on 
that  island.    The  chart  will,  however,  be  your  best  guide.  -^f 

«^uU  ■  I  am,  very  respectfully,  &c.,  d&c, 

f-  CHARLES  WILKES. 

Com.  A.  J.  Dallas,  U,  S.  N.,  Washington. 


Washington,  April  20, 1843. 


\     Since  these  directions  were  written,  I  have  little  to  add  except  some 
general  cautions.    1.  The  entrance  should  never  be  attempted  when  the 
passage  between  the  north  and  south  spits  is  not  well  defined  by  the  break- 
ers on  them ;  it  is  equally  dangerous,  whether  it  be  concealed  by  the  sea's 
'breaking all  the  way  across, or  so  smooth  as  not  to  show  any  break. 

2.  With  a  moderate  breeze,  the  wind  is  apt  to  &il,  or  fall  light,  in  the 
ipassage  between  the  north  and  south  spits,  and  leaves  a  vessel  at  the 
mercy  of  a  strong  tide  and  heavy  swell. 

\     3.  The  best  time  to  enter  and  depart  is  after  half  ebb  and  before  quarter 

'flood ;  the  tide  then  runs  direct  through  the  channels,  and  is  confined  to 

them :  with  the  prevailing  westerly  winds,  for  those  intending  to  take  the 

-north  channel,  the  best  time  to  enter  is  after  half  ebb,  though  the  wind 

'  may  be  scant ;  yet  the  ebb  tide,  acting  on  the  lee  bow,  will  enable  the 

V  vessel  to  keep  to  windward  and  avoid  the  spit  on  the  middle  sands.    The 

south  and  southeast  winds  seldom  prevail — they  blow  during  the  winter 

season  ;  the  anchorage  in  Baker's  bay  during  the  gales  from  this  quarter 

^,is  rough  and  much  exposed. 

I  am,  repectfully,  your  obedient  servant, 

CHARLES  WILKES. 
Washington  City,  August  2, 1846. 


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